How To Travel To Grand Manan Cheap!

Painting at Dark Harbor, Grand Manan, Canada.

First I drove to Dark Harbor, New Brunswick to board the Ferry. I took the 9:00pm ferry.

I would take an earlier ferry next time. The thought of being out on the icy dark sea was scary. I survived of course but it was more nerve wracking. I would take the early ferry so I could watch whales and see lighthouses.

aug27cbig

I didn’t make hotel or campground reservations. I just traveled there! I guess this made things more exciting for me.

Next time I would stay at the Hole In The Wall Campground.

I would find two nice strong trees and put my ENU hammock up. My hammock is mosquito proof and has a rain guard. There are no bears or moose on the island. I would be safe.

There can be giant flying bugs. I cover myself with lavender and bergamot oil to keep bugs away!

Dulce Dory

Dulce Dory

Instead I drove straight to Dark Harbor, jumped into my sleeping back in my station wagon, put in my ear plugs, and went to sleep. I woke up a few times just to admire the beautiful dories lining the water.

aug27ebig

I asked a local person if sleeping in your car was illegal here. She said, “Oh no, it is fine.  We would love to have you.” The local residents are so friendly. I was invited into her beach shack. She said she would make us lunch. She invited me to stay in her spare room and use her skiff! I thanked her and said I needed to go paint! The shack is in the above photo. Funny that I could not accept a sandwich or a nice bed to sleep in. I like to rough it.

Dark Harbor Seawall Cottage 20,000$.

Dark Harbor Seawall Cottage 20,000$.

I spent most of my time taking photos of the dories. Grand Manan’s Dark Harbor has  many dories used for collecting seaweed. They earn 5$ a pound for Dulce. They spread the Dulce on nets to dry. They ship Dulce all over the world. Dulce has a long list of vitamins and minerals. I would have loved to try it. Instead I threw in a few pecans.

I would bring apples and bananas too next time. There is a grocery store on the island.

I didn’t want to take the time away from painting to find food.

The lady who lived in this seawall shack and owned the other shack on the pond , named Beverly, who offered me a sandwich and her spare room, wanted to sell me this seawall shack. She would take under 20,000$ for this place overlooking the sea and Dark Harbor Pond.

She said you could see Lubec in the distance. The cell phones pick up US towers there.

She said there were no real estate taxes for this shack because it was on the seawall.

There was a compost toilet and solar powered shower. I wanted to see the view and go inside this cottage. Next time I promised I would take the tour.

Dark Harbor Pond with seawall in the distance.

Dark Harbor Pond with seawall in the distance.

I talked to a man putting his dory into the water. He said he fished in the winter, dulced in the summer, to make a living. He kept very busy.

There were many styles and sizes of dories lining the pond created to hold salmon.

I shopped for groceries, baked sock eye salmon, made a spinach salad, and took a nap. I am feeling rested again. I have many dory photos to paint while I am baby sitting puppies.

Poppy is doing fine. I decided to keep her off the beach this next few days. We will walk her in our yard. I had a grand welcome from the dogs for several minutes.

I was missed! Have a good night!

Renee Lammers

About Renee Lammers

I am the owner of Lammers Gallery in Bucksport, Maine. I am originally from Winter Park, Florida. I have been living in Maine since 2007. I write "Maine Plein Air Painting", the blog about my three golden retrievers, Monet, Poppy, and Lily, and my adventures as a professional painter who travels around Maine to paint the beautiful Maine landscape.